A few weeks ago, I took my family on a trip to Moscow, Russia. I was thrilled to introduce this colorful and magical city to my family. Truth be told, a vacation to Russia in early March is not exactly tropical, but the cold weather gave us a true taste of Moscow life. It also made us appreciate its splendor that much more.
Prior to visiting Russia, we had to apply for our visas. The application form itself isn’t bad, but what’s complicated is the following:
- you need a sort of “invitation” letter, proving where you will be staying – most hotels can provide this after you’ve made your reservation
- proof of health insurance coverage up to 30,000 Euros – not always the easiest to get from your health insurance
Once you’ve received the visa, the rest is easy. Matilda’s Russian visa is just too cute, and I love that she will always have that, even if she doesn’t exactly remember being there.
Swiss Air flies direct to Moscow from Zurich, so the flight was painless. However, Domodedovo (DME) airport is extremely far from the city center, and our car ride took about 2 hours given the construction and traffic. Luckily my husband got to see St. Basil’s and the leftover Christmas lights on our way in. It reignited our excitement and piqued his curiosity at what more there was to see.
After a relaxing evening in the hotel, the next day, we felt energized and ready to explore the city. Of course, our first stop was the Red Square and St. Basil’s, but not before wrapping ourselves in as many layers as possible. Poor Matilda looked like the little brother from “A Christmas Story” – she seemed to want to scream, “I can’t put my arms down!”
Being in the cold it was worth it. As we neared the Red Square, St. Basil’s sneakily peeked through. I never tire of its colorful and candy-like spires and rounded tops. It continues to feel like something out of a fairy tale, and rivals the Eiffel Tower as my favorite structure. Matilda seemed to like it too.
Given the temperature, we couldn’t spend too much time outdoors, so we wandered over to the GUM mall to warm up and grab a coffee. Just like St. Basil’s, GUM was one of the most colorful placed I’d ever seen. Inside were a variety of bright trees (faux? real?) coupled with equally bright benches. Most of the stores were extremely high end, and the Bosco brand was everywhere. Bosco typically designs the uniforms of Russia’s Olympians, and in GUM, they had a variety of clothing stores and restaurants. We grabbed a coffee in one of them.
After warming up in GUM, we meandered back towards our hotel and took the pedestrian walk way, Kamergerskiy Pereulok. We continued to marvel at the gorgeous Russia architecture and buildings colored in mint, salmon, and beige.
Dinner that night was at a small but delicious pelmeni restaurant call Lepim i Varim. Pelmeni are Russian dumplings, filled with all sorts of delicious goodies, and the restaurant was just our speed. It was like any other “pick up your own order” type of place you’d see in the United States. Tony was so hungry we actually tried every pelmeni on the menu, including pesto and cheese, standard potato, and venison and boar. 😯
The next day, we decided to be a bit adventurous and take ourselves on our own tour of the metro stations. Moscow is known for gorgeous metro stops, and so via the magic of the internet, we mapped it out ourselves. We were staying at the Park Hyatt Moscow, which was very close to the Red Square and knew we wanted to end up near Cafe Pushkin. Based on our plan, this meant our first stop was Kurskaya.
This particular stop had tons of bronze statues in between the entrance tunnels to the trains. They all appeared very militaristic, and one in particular had its dog’s nose rubbed raw.
Stop #2 was Novoslobodskaya. This was my favorite stop because it had the most beautiful stained glass imagery throughout the station. I marveled and each and every portrait, mesmerized by the colors. Clearly, Russia knows that color is the way to my heart. 🙂
Belyruskaya was stop #3, followed by Mayakovskaya. I didn’t quite understand the fuss about Belyruskaya, but I am sure there is a story a tour guide could have enlightened me with. Mayakovskaya, our last stop, had stunning mosaics high up in the ceiling – so high up, however, that I couldn’t get a good photo. 🙁
However, Mayakovskaya put us a 10 minute walk away from Cafe Pushkin, so our overall plan worked great. A colleague of mine had taken me to Cafe Pushkin when I was last in Moscow, and I fell in love with the place. It felt like being inside of the Russia of Anna Karenina. We enjoyed a delicious meal, which I knew Matilda would enjoy. I was pregnant during my previous Moscow visit, and her little kicks inside my tummy let me know she was a fan of Russian cuisine. When she got fussy, the restaurant even hosted a puppet show near the coat room. Matilda couldn’t take her eyes off of the puppeteer, and she seemed to understand every word even though it was all in Russian.
We spent our last day in Moscow relaxing at the hotel before the long drive back to the airport. We truly made some special memories in this amazing city. Russia has yet to disappoint, and I look forward to when I can visit again.